Backstage Beauty #NYFW Fall '13: Hourglass for La Perla

Makeup artist Moani Lee for Hourglass created the looks seen at last night's La Perla Fall 2013 presentation. La Perla designer Giovanni Bianchi looked to Spain for inspiration, specifically the moody color palette of painter Francisco Goya, and the embellished livery of bullfighters.

“I wanted to capture the sensuality and the strength of the woman wearing this decadent lingerie,” says Lee, who focused on elegant brows, radiant skin and dramatic lips worthy of an Almodóvar heroine.

For La Perla’s Black Label collection, which referenced mysterious themes including erotic art and surrealism, Lee switched the focus from the lips to the eyes. “The second look is a fresh take on the classic smoky eye, featuring a blend of black and brown kohl liner,” she says. “There are no harsh lines, it’s a softer interpretation that showcases beautiful, almond-shaped eyes.”

The nude color on lips is a preview of Hourglass Femme Nude Lip Stylo, a collection of sophisticated neutral lipsticks to be released in the fall. Lee took a mixmaster approach to makeup: To imbue skin with a multi-dimensional luminescence, she combined three different shades of Hourglass foundation, concealer, and finishing powder. As for the scene-stealing scarlet lip, she blended two shades of Hourglass Femme Rouge Velvet Crème Lipstick. “It was one part Icon and three parts Raven,” she says. “The mixture of blue red and orange red makes for an opulent and regal fall statement that even Goya himself might have appreciated.”